🇲🇪 THE EYES OF DURMITOR
If your dreams include mountains, the sea, and fairytale-like nature, it's time for an adventure in Montenegro . Here, reality is better than a dream, and the list of places worth visiting is endless.
This time, we've chosen a tour that includes five mountain lakes, which you’ll discover in the rest of this guide.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Although we didn’t miss the chance to cool off in the Adriatic Sea, we still dedicated most of our time to exploring the mountain landscapes.
Durmitor National Park is a region that hides some of the most breathtaking landscapes you’ll ever experience. It’s often called the “Balkan Alps”— and for good reason. Here, mountain tourism is thriving, and the opportunities for exploration are nearly endless.
This beautiful mountain realm, located in the northern part of Montenegro, is home to 748 natural springs, 5 deep canyons, numerous rocky peaks, and as many as 18 glacial lakes. From these natural wonders springs a whole array of activities designed to bring you closer to the authentic nature of Durmitor.
The main mountain center is Žabljak, the highest town in the Balkans. Here you’ll find a variety of accommodation options, as well as restaurants and cafés to suit every preference. Most importantly, Žabljak is an ideal base and starting point for most of the surrounding trails.
We’ve included our full route of around 1000 km, and below you’ll find details for the individual locations:
- The road from Skopje to Žabljak is quite long and demanding. We drove through Kosovo and Albania, with an overnight stop by the sea near the Bay of Buljarica.
- The campsite we chose is called “Maslina” – we paid €50 per night for 4 people, two vehicles with rooftop tents, and electricity on one plot (price applies to June and may vary).
I: Vražje and Riblje Lake
True mountain eyes—mirrors reflecting the towering rocky peaks in the background. Located at around 1600 meters above sea level, these lakes are known for their striking blue colorand lie in stark contrast to the surrounding greenery.
The first and larger one is Vražje Lake, whose name means “Devil’s Lake.” There are intriguing legends tied to its existence: some say devils once emerged from it at night, spreading harm to those nearby; others link it to the strong swirling winds and the lake’s mysterious hue; while some claim that everyone who tried to swim across it drowned.
Despite these tales, it’s hard not to admire its beauty and mystique . Take a moment to soak in the nature—sit by the shore with a warm cup of coffee.
Just behind the hill lies a smaller version of the same scenery. Riblje Lake is another hidden gem of Durmitor, known for its crystal-clear, calm water and peaceful atmosphere.
As the name suggests (“Fish Lake”) , it was once teeming with fish. However, locals tell of a malevolent spirit that appeared in the lake, scaring away and chasing off the fish. It was believed to be punishment for those polluting the surrounding nature.
Since then, the fish have vanished, and the lake has gained a reputation for being mysterious and silent. Locals believe that if you treat it with respect, the lake will reward you with its stillness and beauty.
These two lakes are located near Žabljak, about 12 km away. You can reach them by hiking, biking, or driving. Wild camping is prohibited and fined, but we’ll let you in on where we camped.
II: Jablan Lake
The first a hiking trail on Durmitor—completed ✅. Our entire journey revolved around the lakes, which guided our trail choice. We wanted to see the mountain from a different perspective, and we’re certain we made the right decision.
This is a circular route of about 13 kilometers, and Jablan Lake was our first goal to conquer. It’s reached via a marked trail that winds through dense pine forest. The steep initial ascent is easily forgotten as you hike under the thick shade of the trees.
The views that open up above the forest are a reward for your endurance, and from there on, every step is a balm for the soul. A crown of rocky peaks, distant mountains blending together, a symphony of natural sounds in the background, and an unmatched sense of peace as you're embraced by this dramatic landscape.
The lake lies on the path toward the famous rocky peak Crvena Greda (2164 m), which you can add to your route if you're up for a few extra kilometers and a bird's-eye view.
Nearby, a magical viewpoint offers a panoramic scene of this alpine region. Though hidden in the forest and requiring some effort to find, we did the work and marked it on the map as part of the full route. This detour will take about ten minutes—but trust us, the view is worth so much more!
III: Zminje Lake
The second part of the tour was no less fascinating, and we enriched our hike back to camp with another natural lake.
Its name is Zminje Lake , located at 1520 meters above sea level , nestled in the quiet surroundings of Durmitor’s black forest . It's known for its turquoise-green color and diverse ecosystem, which is both unique and fragile. For this reason, only low-impact activities are recommended—such as hiking, observing, picnicking, and photography.
You can reach it via a hiking trail directly from Žabljak or by joining the route we previously suggested.
IV: Crno Lake
If you hear someone mention the “Queen of Durmitor” – know they’re talking about Crno Lake. It’s the largest lake in the national park, of indescribable beauty and immense value. The lake is a true gem that adorns the town of Žabljak, and traditionally, every first-time visitor makes a point to see it on their first day.
From a distance, the landscape frames the two bodies of water that form the famous Crno Lake (the Small and Large Lake), with two dramatic rocky peaks towering above – Mali Međed (2217 m) and Veliki Međed (2287 m). The view is pure art, enough to give you goosebumps.
Leading to the lake there are several trails from different directions; we chose the one starting from Mlinski Potok Camp (see map), where we stayed. Among all others, a fully marked circular trail loops around the lake—perfect for recreation.
Additionally: Not far from Žabljak lies Barno Lake, considered to have healing properties.
Camp:
There are three campsites in the Žabljak area, and we chose Mlinski Potok, because we had stayed there before and knew it was a reliable option. The camp is fully natural, located in a quiet setting, and offers an unforgettable view of Međed Peak.
Price per night: €25 (two people + vehicle with rooftop tent + electricity)
*prices may vary depending on the season*
The campsite includes a shared space with tables and benches, outdoor gazebos, a small bar, and showers with toilets and sinks. There’s no store nearby, so if you decide to stay there—make sure to stock up on food and other essentials beforehand.
And if you’d like to camp with a rooftop tent, you can rent our TENTHOUSE and enjoy an unforgettable adventure!
🚙 Žabljak – Kolašin – Peć
The journey back home is boring for many—but not when you travel with us. Although we reserved the whole day for driving, we made sure the route was interesting and scenic.
From Žabljak, we headed toward Šavnik (you can reach it via the main road or by passing near Vražje Lake), and from there continued through the mountain pass leading to Kolašin. Along this 75 km stretch, you’ll witness yet another side of Montenegro’s authentic nature —eyes wide open toward the “crown” (the name for the rocky peaks shaped like a crown), and heart pounding every time you glance into the depths of the Morača Canyon.
The pass itself is barely two lanes wide, so drive carefully. Just before reaching Kolašin, the road widens, and we strongly recommend taking a break and looking back —you might not even realize what kind of landscape you’ve just driven through until you do.
If you're in the mood for a tasty meal, stop by Savardak Restaurant and try some local specialties while sitting by the river in deep shade.
One more gorge awaits before you head toward Peć in Kosovo (via Berane and Rožaje). For us, this was the most beautiful border crossing we’ve ever seen—situated at 1800 meters above sea level , nestled in the embrace of breathtaking nature.
To wrap it up:
The wealth of a mountain is measured by the amount of water it holds—and by that standard, Durmitor is a true gem! If you intentionally—or even accidentally—decide to explore the fairytale nature of Montenegro, check out our YouTube vlog:
(coming soon)
And don’t miss our stories on Instagram:
Additionally
Read the ADRENALINE+ blog , which covers the most beautiful parts of Montenegro.
We wish you unforgettable adventures this summer!
See you in the mountains,
Ana & Mane